As we spring forward and move out of the doldrums of winter let's learn more about the boards we ride. This will be critical for the beginner looking to progress and move from a foamy to a more dynamic board.
Today let's look at the Longboard. The most iconic symbol of surf history, longboards have been ridden for generations from the ancient Polynesians to Gidget & The Beach Boys. What was once a large floating log has evolved into a wave riding vehicle of cutting-edge design ridden by beginners and pros across the world. Here's a great video on the history of surfing if you want to know more.
Lots of Volume
Easy Paddling, Easy to Catch Waves
Slower to Turn/ Maneuver
Ride on the Nose or Tail
Typically 9' or Longer
Single or 2 + 1 Fin Configuration
Lots of width in both nose and tail
Great for trimming , as longboards keep momentum over mushy/slow sections. This momentum makes it more challenging to turn. You need to move onto the the tail so the board can pivot.
To increase speed you need to move forward on the board, which minimizes drag.
Longboards have a high foam volume that creates buoyancy, which makes the easy to paddle, easy to catch waves, and near impossible to duck dive. This volume through the nose combined with increased tail weight enables nose riding. With out that extra volume you would cross-step your way up to hang five or ten and the board would pearl dive as oppose to planing along and maintaining its speed.
Next week we will look at Mid-Length, which fall into a size range ranging from about 6'8 or 7'0 to around 8'0.
Please let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them ASAP.